TV8

6 hours ago, ½cwt said:

From 2005 model year

to be fair, mine is a 996, not a 986 and year 2000 based on earlier info. To me, if its done 96k miles and the oil comes out clean, then all good!

11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

However an MOT tester most definitely should!!  Besides my Indy has never worked on the brakes, but bear in mind it is used all year round and if left with salty water, which is positively ducted onto the discs, is left on the faces they will decay faster than the drier outer faces.  My wife's Golf cabrio had the same problem, over a winter the inner faces of the disc just blew whilst the outers looked like they had normal wear, almost like the cast iron delaminating from corrosion.  neither brake system has any sponginess to indicate a bleed is required and when I changed the brakes neither had any stuck pistons.  Something to watch out for even if you ahve nice shiny outer faces to your discs.

Mine were like it when I got the car and it’s quite faint and not getting any worse. Three mots and two advisories. Brakes work well and I have added some ducts for the inner discs from a GT3 according to the marketplace advert. I couldn’t work out how to fit them and precision showed me in the end. Like funny pieces of a 3D puzzle!

11 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Rotting on the inside of the discs is a known issue with Boxsters and I assume from comments here that is linked with winter - whether more water, humidity or salt I don't know.  As he said they were OK in October and dead by next June, I see that's over winter.

Got it thanks. 

On 7/14/2022 at 1:10 PM, ½cwt said:

Looking at these pictures, it has electric releases for the bonnet and boot and the newer format instruments so this is actually an early 2001 Model Year car. (Model years start in the Aug the year before)  The IMSB was changed to the problematic single row bearing part way through 20001 manufacture.  Ask the for the engine number. If it ends 11237 or lower then it has the old more robust dual row bearing.  In which case don't worry about it.  

Is the 3.4 engine similarly changed please? At some point I will re advertise the car for sale and a couple of people asked questions about the spec of the engine. It is engine number 66Y17040 what ever that means. I had one person asking me about the mechanism on the bonnet release as the type of manual operation was a factor in the overall build (apparently or more likely a reason to try and justify chipping me!) and some detail on hand re the engine can only be useful for those more thorough than me!

11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

So if yours is 2000 it should be Y.

It is indeed! Thank you. 

13 minutes ago, jonogt6 said:

Mr Tv8 I have to agree. It seems bizarre that discs can wear like that. By no means the first time I've seen it though.

There are two bleed nipples on the callipers. Inner and outer, I think and if that is the case, then it’s a maintenance issue and no specialist is going to admit to that! 

5 hours ago, dpg123 said:

correct! F*

Sorry to hear that. We got reclassified and starred at the same time and the difference was huge!

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Mine were OK in October last year at service and MOT, some corrosion in a ring around the outer of the inside face and a little pitting (no comment on MOT), then by June:

Outside faces still fine

 

but inside faces

 

And @Menoporsche not sure what is meant by the “over winter effect” but those discs look like a relatively long term problem on these pics. I can’t understand how a balanced brake system can allow one side of the disks to rot like this?

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

The Porsche crest in the centre of teh steering wheel was silver for the 2000 Model Year.

Just realised I don’t actually know the year of my car for sure! 2000 I think but had a few questions about the throttle system and boot/bonnet release mechanism. It’s black and silver on the steering wheel though. 

4 minutes ago, dpg123 said:

I called A Plan for my Macan Turbo (SW London) and they couldn't even quote me on it - not a single one of their underwriters was willing to give it cover.

I better you are nearer F than A in the risk register and have a * for good measure. We went from C to D* and premiums went up a lot, no modifications and parking restrictions etc. 

https://www.theclayclothcompany.co.uk/car-insurance-post-code-ratings.html

Living in south London, I have given up with the classic car type policies. They don't like business use or allow me to park on road or on the driveway. The Boxster and 996 have been with Churchill for 4 or 5 years and it is very competitive, use the car how I want and park where I want and the only thing they don't include is European Breakdown cover but you can buy that if you need or want it.

The car looks ok in the pictures and I have been looking at 986s for a while and that seems an ok price from a dealer. That said, I have not read the MOT advisories and would also be paying attention to the discs looking at those pictures. The inside of my 996 discs are a slightly "potted" but the outsides are perfect, which these are not. I am told that the corrosion on the inside is nothing to worry about and in 3 years, they have always been the same, not getting any worse or better.

Also, check the air-conditioning works fully hot and fully cold. There are some connectors under the car near the driver side doors that can let out the refrigerant as well as the normal problems with condensers. 

Re the RMS, not aware of the bearing change but Precision Porsche put the mileage around the 40k mark where if they get to that, you should be ok. Check the oil for debris obviously at each service.

Love the ambers on this car!

On 7/14/2022 at 3:30 PM, Terryg said:

Makes sense since it also has a coloured crest on the steering wheel rather than the black crest that millennial edition had. The condition looks good but other than that the only thing exceptional is the price, unless you are impressed by one owner stat.

By millennial, do you mean model year 2000? I ask as I looked at a Boxer that was slightly new than my 996 and I noticed my steering wheel was black vs coloured?

On 6/4/2022 at 7:15 PM, phazed said:

I bought it in 2019 and still have it Graham.

 

I was referring to the blue one in the background. 

7 hours ago, phazed said:

 

It works!

Is that an old picture or did you buy the beast back when it was up for sale recently?

Not sure if either or both of them are on here or not but the guy who bought my Boxster has just been away with a friend of mine on a long trip (south London to the NC500 and back again) and my old car followed and stayed with the car in front for the whole journey and consistently cost £6 per tankful less to fill up! Both are 2005 2.7s and my old car has probably 20k fewer miles but that shouldn’t be enough to change anything? 

16 hours ago, phazed said:

Removing one spring gives the driver a feeling that the throttle is so light that it can be floored instantaneously giving huge power gains.

Particularly if the single spring doesn’t allow the throttle to close properly…

13 hours ago, zcacogp said:

Phazed, as far as I'm aware Sport mode changes the throttle pedal map but nothing else, so there is no difference in the power or torque curves. It just had the effect of pushing the throttle pedal harder - i.e small pedal movements are read as large pedal movements. 

However I do agree that the effect is quite remarkable. (Whether it's desirable or not is another matter and there's been much typing wasted debating that point on other pages on here.)

This is a common mod for Blackpools finest and @phazed will know it as the one spring or two mod on the throttle cable 😄

These are not new cars. Personally, I wouldn’t bother changing anything above standard unless I was certain standard, as it should be, was not good enough for how it was going to be used by me. 
what happens is that people have tired bits on the car and think that the upgrade route is required without understanding if their existing set up is sub optimal for them or not. And, it’s easier justifying an upgrade purchase than a refreshed standard replacement. 

7 hours ago, phazed said:

Hi Graham. Kind words.......

Hi Peter, kind words are easier when it’s true. 
 

in my experience, the thing that has made my car go faster than anything was the instructor I had at Castle Combe. There were a few of us there that day and I found it a scary and slippy track at the start. By the end of the day, it was a night and day improvement and it cost me about £60. The tyres were never the same after either 😀

Phazed is being modest about his driving ability. He was quicker than lots of them in his Skoda! 

8 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Celebrate devolved power to metropolitan councils and mayors!

Useless, the lot of them!

This CAZ and associated charges is new to me. Not sure how it applies. Of the live zones, Birmingham wants to charge me £8 and Bath and Portsmouth don’t want anything. Manchester is no charge and under review for when to implement and Bristol wants £9 when they switch it on later this year.
What a mess. 

https://multiple-vehiclecheck-pay.drive-clean-air-zone.service.gov.uk/what_would_you_like_to_do

25 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Litronics come as clear from the factory even before the clear rear lights came in.  Amber tinted film would be your way forward.  Litronics are worth it compared to the standard candles, sorry, halogen bulbs.

Thanks for the suggestion. 

Looking at a 986 and if I go with a Silver car (which I have said three times I would never do again..) it would good to have some fried eggs on it. I know that normal headlights can be converted but it has litronics (year 2001) and not getting such certain answers when I search.

Is this possible please?