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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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38 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

Attempted to remove o/s/f drop link. Got as far as slicing the link off to access the 17mm hex. Moved it very slightly with maximum effort and a 3 foot breaker bar.

Looks like much heat will be required.

Still a slow process without an impact wrench I'm afraid even with heat.  Work it both ways to break down the corrosion trapping it in place into a powder more quickly.

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Wired up reversing sensors & camera.

Getting the boot trims out is a royal faff!

Ran the wiring down n/s, only for the roll bar/seat belt cover/trim to decide that 21 years was long enough for carpet to be glued to plastic; cue a session with some contact adhesive and some clothes pegs last night.

The holes I punched through the bumper revealed a light coloured edge; looked “ok”, sort of like I’d polished the bumper and got polish residue in the edges, so that all came back off, I’ve touched in the edges and am hoping to refit it all today.

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19 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Still a slow process without an impact wrench I'm afraid even with heat.  Work it both ways to break down the corrosion trapping it in place into a powder more quickly.

Some progress of sorts today. Did the o/s/f one and it came of reasonably easily. Then went back to the nearside.

I thought I had got it moving and started to work it back and forth.......................and then the hex wrung off !

Have started drilling through it now, with 4, 5, 6 mm drill bits. Gave it a good whacking again with a lump hammer half an hour ago. It didnt budge but I managed to whack my thumb with the lump hammer, so now got that familiar throbbing, plus cuts & grazes.

Have to start a run of night shifts now so play is postponed for the moment. 

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If you are down to hitting it, a magnetic induction heater would help a lot, it only heats the rod it is applied to not the alloy around it and some how even though het expands it allows it to slip out more easily.

You won't like this hindsight, but were you using a 6 or 12 point socket?  A 6 point is a must to reduce the chance of burring off the hex, or did the whole bolt head shear off?

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On 5/17/2022 at 8:59 PM, letsmile said:

I’d be very interested to know which parking sensors you have, and if you recommend them 👍

 

On 5/17/2022 at 9:15 PM, RalphyBMW said:

I’m using Vodafone/Cobra R0394 sensors, we’ve got them on the Leaf and my mums Fabia.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171211211790?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MQQeddRERi6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ja1hWZp7Qj6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 

The appeal is that they are very discrete;

SLVPtWiK.jpg
 

The curved bumper on the 986 will mean I can’t use the outer OE positions, but hopefully not too far in.

I’ll post pics!

Full explanation here;

but some pics

97iyACPT.jpg
 

RLwvhyNa.jpg

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Always had a problem with the passenger side window not dropping enough to clear the roof. Previously I replaced the window regulator with a OEM type, but still not much improvement. So I bought a second hand original Porsche one and the motor from eBay. Fitted it today and success now drops as it should. Downside was the chicken I had on the BBQ rotisserie burnt to a crisp while I was fixing the car.

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12 hours ago, ½cwt said:

If you are down to hitting it, a magnetic induction heater would help a lot, it only heats the rod it is applied to not the alloy around it and some how even though het expands it allows it to slip out more easily.

You won't like this hindsight, but were you using a 6 or 12 point socket?  A 6 point is a must to reduce the chance of burring off the hex, or did the whole bolt head shear off?

Used 6 point socket. Hex was already burred, so I guess a previous owner had tried to remove the droplink using an open ended spanner on the hex, and gave up.

Induction heater would be nice, but I dont have access to one, and couldnt justify buying one for this.

Plan is to carry on drilling, and if that doesnt do it, take the hub off and take it to work and press it out.

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1 hour ago, Bradders59 said:

Used 6 point socket. Hex was already burred, so I guess a previous owner had tried to remove the droplink using an open ended spanner on the hex, and gave up.

Induction heater would be nice, but I dont have access to one, and couldnt justify buying one for this.

Plan is to carry on drilling, and if that doesnt do it, take the hub off and take it to work and press it out.

TBH, I'd just take it off and go with the press to avoid risking damage to the casting.

I'd happily loan you my induction heater if we were closer unless you fancy meeting somewhere halfway between you and Kettering.

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13 hours ago, ½cwt said:

TBH, I'd just take it off and go with the press to avoid risking damage to the casting.

I'd happily loan you my induction heater if we were closer unless you fancy meeting somewhere halfway between you and Kettering.

Thats a very kind offer, thanks very much. If I cant make progress over the next few days I might get in touch and take you up on it.

Thanks again.

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15 hours ago, ½cwt said:

TBH, I'd just take it off and go with the press to avoid risking damage to the casting.

I'd happily loan you my induction heater if we were closer unless you fancy meeting somewhere halfway between you and Kettering.

1/2cwt are these induction heaters any good? I was thinking of buying 1 off eBay to do my brake callipers nipples that 50% of are seized. What make do you have? Any tips would be useful, thanks in advance.

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Mine was about £170 off Amazon but as with every thing costs a bit more now...:

Solary Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W Hand Tool Set for Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW 220V : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

It was very effective at removing the droplink bolts.  I came with 3 coil sizes the smallest of which would go over a caliper nipple on its own, but as it is recessed on one side into the caliper body you might not get the full effect so I'm not sure how good it would be in this application.  @bally4563 what do you reckon to this application as I believe you have one too?

 

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On 5/22/2022 at 6:32 PM, Bradders59 said:

Some progress of sorts today. Did the o/s/f one and it came of reasonably easily. Then went back to the nearside.

I thought I had got it moving and started to work it back and forth.......................and then the hex wrung off !

Have started drilling through it now, with 4, 5, 6 mm drill bits. Gave it a good whacking again with a lump hammer half an hour ago. It didnt budge but I managed to whack my thumb with the lump hammer, so now got that familiar throbbing, plus cuts & grazes.

Have to start a run of night shifts now so play is postponed for the moment. 

I only read briefly but is this a drop link?

If so you can run an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc down the back of the shock and cut the drop link bolt in half. They will then tap out.

I have done this a few times and is very effective.

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@1/2cwt thank you for that information, I need to have a good look @ the callipers & check out the position, from memory it is the outside nipples that are seized/stuck the inside ones were free.

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Mine was about £170 off Amazon but as with every thing costs a bit more now...:

Solary Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W Hand Tool Set for Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW 220V : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

It was very effective at removing the droplink bolts.  I came with 3 coil sizes the smallest of which would go over a caliper nipple on its own, but as it is recessed on one side into the caliper body you might not get the full effect so I'm not sure how good it would be in this application.  @bally4563 what do you reckon to this application as I believe you have one too?

 

For small bolts and caliper nipples I use a kitchen blowtorch. Allows a very precise bunsen burner jet of flame to hit the target. Then get a ring spanner on and shock them loose by hitting spanner with a hammer. 

Just took apart a hub with this method and got all the disc shield bolts and ABS sensor bolts out fine. Sure the mini blowtorch may not be man enough for M12 suspension bolts but they usually shift with an impact gun.

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3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Mine was about £170 off Amazon but as with every thing costs a bit more now...:

Solary Magnetic Induction Heater Kit 1000W Hand Tool Set for Flameless Heat Induction Heat 1KW 220V : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

It was very effective at removing the droplink bolts.  I came with 3 coil sizes the smallest of which would go over a caliper nipple on its own, but as it is recessed on one side into the caliper body you might not get the full effect so I'm not sure how good it would be in this application.  @bally4563 what do you reckon to this application as I believe you have one too?

 

My only advice would be to do it with the caliper off the car, brake fluid is very flammable 

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Finally, just changed my transmission oil - I ordered 3 litres which I thought would be more than enough, but the oil level is still approx 2.5cm below the fill hole level. The oil took an age to arrive, so before putting the plug in and lowering the car would appreciate any feedback as to whether the level I mention is ok?? Thanks for any feedback👍

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34 minutes ago, letsmile said:

Finally, just changed my transmission oil - I ordered 3 litres which I thought would be more than enough, but the oil level is still approx 2.5cm below the fill hole level. The oil took an age to arrive, so before putting the plug in and lowering the car would appreciate any feedback as to whether the level I mention is ok?? Thanks for any feedback👍

2.9 987 Manual took 3.25 litres, according to my CPS receipt

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