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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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Applied PPF to my headlights by hand, without a heatgun or any tool to push the air bubbles out. Did OK on the offside one, made a bit of a hash on the nearside one. Given my Fresnel lenses inside the sealed clusters have gone brown and crispy, this is mostly just an experiment (to be followed by a trial fit of LED bulbs), but when I eventually replace my headlights I think it will be a good idea to buy the same £20 kit off of ebay again, to protect the new units from stonechips and UV damage.

https://imgur.com/gallery/ACAKMIb

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23 minutes ago, Ol' Shatterhand said:

Applied PPF to my headlights by hand, without a heatgun or any tool to push the air bubbles out. Did OK on the offside one, made a bit of a hash on the nearside one. Given my Fresnel lenses inside the sealed clusters have gone brown and crispy, this is mostly just an experiment (to be followed by a trial fit of LED bulbs), but when I eventually replace my headlights I think it will be a good idea to buy the same £20 kit off of ebay again, to protect the new units from stonechips and UV damage. 

Ha, finally sussed imgur image embedding! 🙂

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Edited by Ol' Shatterhand
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Installed a new front undertray last night. Two issues have reared their ugly heads though. The first four clips went in perfectly and sit nice and tight. But... in the centre of the undertray there are supposed to be two other clips - however the clips don't actually clip onto or in anything so it won't work. I have checked and all the literature I could find shows only one undertray for the 986 - which doesn't have these two centre spaces for the clips. Maybe that's just the way they show these things.. It's not really too much of an issue as the four that I have in are nice and secure as long as the four plastic nuts secure the corners to the underbody, but that is where issue number two is a problem..

Only one of the plastic nuts will screw onto the screws/ studs. This means that potentially the whole thing will be rattling under the car at any sort of speed. Not ideal. There seems to be corrosion, and or crud, stuck to the screws/ studs that prevents the plastic nuts from screwing onto them. I have liberally doused the whole area with WD40 in the hopes that will clean it off enough so I can get the nuts started and power my way through the rest of the way until it is all tight against the underbody.

I have also ordered two new rubber lips for the rear mudguards from Design 911 as they seem to have a bit of a sale on these at the minute. I still need the wheel arch front rubber lips on both sides but they are £17 each and my Porsche fund is severely depleted now...

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The studs rust making the thread almost useless, then they eventually rust away.  There is a factory part that is a stud version of a nutsert but the tool to fit them is crazy expensive.

There should be 6 clips, 2 clip to each diagonal brace and two down the centre which have location slots to clip into, you may not see these if the tray is not aligned properly.

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Sounds like you have to fabricate an innovative way of fixing the tray. Finding a die to clean up the stud thread is over-optimistic? Or find a die one size smaller, to cut a new thread on what's left of the stud, and put a non-Porsche nut on it?

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20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

The studs rust making the thread almost useless, then they eventually rust away.  There is a factory part that is a stud version of a nutsert but the tool to fit them is crazy expensive.

There should be 6 clips, 2 clip to each diagonal brace and two down the centre which have location slots to clip into, you may not see these if the tray is not aligned properly.

I thought so too and removed the tray again to check. The car never had a tray in my ownership (bought it without one) but still can't see a place where it clips into in the centre. I am lying on my back in the driveway and the car is on jack stands so I can't really get under it properly to look at the whole thing. 

2 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Sounds like you have to fabricate an innovative way of fixing the tray. Finding a die to clean up the stud thread is over-optimistic? Or find a die one size smaller, to cut a new thread on what's left of the stud, and put a non-Porsche nut on it?

I was thinking of using a copper brush to try and get rid of the corrosion. The first one went on with no issues and sits perfectly tight keeping the undertray nice and snug. I am hoping that if I can get the studs cleaned up then I may be able to get the other three snug as well. In a worst case I'll have to make a different plan.

Oh, and I decided to throw caution to the winds and get the front wheel arch rubber lips as well. It offends me that those parts look so shabby and I would like it proper even though no-one will ever see it probably.

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It seems to me there is some cr@p stuck in the threads rather than material rusting away. The stud is too thick for the plastic nut to get a grip. I'm hoping the WD40 will soften whatever it is and start breaking it down. A steel brush will then be able to remove it and clean out the threads. Once I can catch the screwthreads with the nut it should be able to go on and tighten up.

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The plastic nut will give you the thread of the die you need to clean the threads (hell, or even just a steel nut which screws cleanly onto one of the other studs).  As it’s German I hope it would be a common metric thread. 

Edited by Menoporsche
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It is a course sled tapper like thread then with underseal over the top.  They rust under the underseal which expands the thread making it difficult to fit the nuts. Strip the underseal off and some times there is just a rusty steel pin left with no thread, or they shear off.... Poor engineering solution, plastic expanding rivets would have been better.

If there is a thread the nuts do go on to even quite bad studs. Paint with hammerite and apply aerosol wax or underseal as a way to lengthen life. WD will disappear too quickly for long term protection.

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25 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

It is a course sled tapper like thread then with underseal over the top.  They rust under the underseal which expands the thread making it difficult to fit the nuts. Strip the underseal off and some times there is just a rusty steel pin left with no thread, or they shear off.... Poor engineering solution, plastic expanding rivets would have been better.

If there is a thread the nuts do go on to even quite bad studs. Paint with hammerite and apply aerosol wax or underseal as a way to lengthen life. WD will disappear too quickly for long term protection.

That is good advice. I've looked for a similar threaded nut in my toolbox but not found one yet. Once I do get the plastic nuts on I intend to make sure they rust again. Hammerite and underseal may be the way to go.

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Heard it making a noise like a one note mouth organ which goes away when blipping the throttle i.e. changing the crank case pressure.  According to another thread on here it is a sign of a failing AOS.

So that's two jobs to do, fit the coil packs I have on order and then the AOS that I need to get on order.

What brand do people buy and do we know who makes the genuine Porsche ones? or it is a matter of just buy Porsche?

Edited by ½cwt
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5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

So that's two jobs to do, fit the coil packs I have on order and then the AOS that I need to get on order.

What brand do people buy and do we know who makes the genuine Porsche ones? or it is a matter of just buy Porsche?

Funny you should ask that 🙂. I've read elsewhere original is the way to go. Do the job once. For my car around £110 but not checked OPC prices. Non originals can be had for around £40 - £60.

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11 hours ago, Boxob said:

Funny you should ask that 🙂. I've read elsewhere original is the way to go. Do the job once. For my car around £110 but not checked OPC prices. Non originals can be had for around £40 - £60.

OPC has quoted £97.92 with discount, so going ahead with that to avoid buy cheap buy twice. 

Current part number is 996 107 023 04 if anyone else needs it.

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7 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Added to the tool collection ordering long reach hose clamp ready for the AOS change. Requested price for AOS from OPC.

I think the 986 is a bigger challenge than the 987, but I never used the long reach hose clamps. Tackled the job from the top, removed the two plastic hoses and two torque drive screws, then sprayed wd40 on bottom hose that is impossible to see. Positioned screwdriver on hose then pulled AOS up and out leaving spring clip on. Once AOS is out of the way you can exchange spring clip for a jubilee clip which is a lot easier to tighten up with a 7mm socket and extension.

Good luck and hope this cures your problem.

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