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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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23 minutes ago, map said:

 

Unless of course all M96 exhaust manifolds are exact mirror images in terms of how they bolt up, match to exhaust ports and interface to the downstream system.

 

Heads are identical 

That's why they have IMS

No idea about manifolds 

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5 minutes ago, ATM said:

No idea about manifolds 

So it doesn't get lost at the bottom of the previous page, K.I.T.T. quoting K.I.T.T.

 

 

5 minutes ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Manifolds themselves are different between different platforms ie. 98x vs 99x , and certain capacities.

 

20 hours ago, TV8 said:

jigs engine specific given the different engine capacities?

In the context of the jig, the one Bally works will work on all non-mezger 9x6 and 9x7.1 cars, as the bolt pattern is the same.

 

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On 9/8/2023 at 4:28 PM, dieselpower said:

Fitted a Blaupunkt Frankfurt RCM 82 headunit.  Loving the period look of it and having DAB and Spotify in the car.

IMG-2324.jpg

Are you ever south of the border, or near Moffat?

Would love to have a closer look at this in person. Particularly interested in iPod integration - I've found there's only so much reviews / corporate blurb can tell you.

Looks like a potential candidate to replace my Becker:

48116141673_79f3f30a90_b.jpg

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36 minutes ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Manifolds themselves are different between different platforms ie. 98x vs 99x , and certain capacities.

 

In the context of the jig, the one Bally works will work on all non-mezger 9x6 and 9x7.1 cars, as the bolt pattern is the same.

Thank you. I will put the jig on the list of things to buy if I see one for sale.  If I get one, a job for the local garage. 

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1 minute ago, TV8 said:

Thank you. I will put the jig on the list of things to buy if I see one for sale.  If I get one, a job for the local garage. 

@bally4563 has one that he (used to) rent out.

Should you wish to replace the bolts with some Ti studs, I can supply / point in the right direction. Did a group buy once, but had some challenges with the supply chain, so stopped.

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On 9/9/2023 at 11:45 AM, RedBarediver said:

This morning I decided to tackle the quick job of removing the broken rubber front lip on both sides and replace with new ones I got this week.

Quick job my rear end... Took me almost two hours to get the old screws out and replace the lips. At the same time I decided to do the rear wheel rubber lips as well. Left side had a huge amount of dirt, stones and cr@p come out of the  little holes. Manhandled the lips in until they clicked (softly) into place. I noticed that the right hand side side sill corner is a little loose. I think (no, I'm sure actually) the screw that is supposed to hold it at the top (under the wheel arch liner) is absent. Didn't feel like getting the car into the air, take off the wheel, remove the wheel arch liner, fit screw, reinstall everything. Next time I need to take the wheel off I'll just make that part of the plan. You can probably replace the screw without all the drama but in all honesty after fighting with the front lips I would rather take it for a spin in the sunlight and have a non-alcoholic shandy somewhere.

What are the part numbers for the front pieces please, my offside on is missing 

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Changed the clutch slave cylinder. Surprisingly easy DYI job.

On normal driving I did not notice anything wrong on the old one, but at the track with fast gear changes and plenty of those in short time period the clutch pedal stayed in the floor for a 1-2 seconds couple of times per lap.

Now the clutch works very nice with much improved precision compared to the original clutch slave cylinder.

Week from now is the next track day to really test this one out.

Old removed part:

u5AO6BE.jpg

 

New part:

rBNYRWD.jpg

Edited by pacificjuha
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@map as has been covered off above, the query was about bolt pattern and drilling jigs, so as @K.I.T.T. says, not actual manifold assembly interchangeability.

@TV8, it should be possible to make one from a scrap manifold flange, however D911 I believe have a costly kit.  If you need to get the work done the cost effective route will be taking to @bally4563

 

 

Although even with the engine 90° the other way it might be possible for some sort of de-catted system... who knows?

Edited by ½cwt
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1 hour ago, Gunscrossed said:

What are the part numbers for the front pieces please, my offside on is missing 

996 504 503 00 - left

996 504 504 00 - right

Getting some stainless screws to replace the factory steel ones that rust is helpful to long term maintenance.  You may find some of the clip in speed nuts are missing - 999 591 699 02

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23 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

@bally4563 has one that he (used to) rent out.

Should you wish to replace the bolts with some Ti studs, I can supply / point in the right direction. Did a group buy once, but had some challenges with the supply chain, so stopped.

Thanks for the tip! Not sure what Ti studs are (titanium?) but the ones on the car don’t look that durable!

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Finished the last corner, so all coffin arms, drop links, tuning forks and rear track control arm tie rods have now been replaced, I purchased all these from Spyderperformance over the last couple of discount offers they had.

I now need to get a 4 wheel alignment, and then enjoy the car.

mnCKjZI.jpgKBLvgQ2.jpgyOPDrvu.jpgTu6BXpY.jpgI am glad I heeded the advice on here to invest in an impact wrench to remove the old fixings. I would have probably given up without one.

Cheers.

Pete

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12 minutes ago, S14 said:

Finished the last corner, so all coffin arms, drop links, tuning forks and rear track control arm tie rods have now been replaced, I purchased all these from Spyderperformance over the last couple of discount offers they had.

I now need to get a 4 wheel alignment, and then enjoy the car.

mnCKjZI.jpgKBLvgQ2.jpgyOPDrvu.jpgTu6BXpY.jpgI am glad I heeded the advice on here to invest in an impact wrench to remove the old fixings. I would have probably given up without one.

Cheers.

Pete

You will find it a new car.  It really is a revelation as to how good (and rattle/squeak/knock free) these cars are, then fit some decent rubber if you don't have some already. GY Assym 6s on the rear of mine are so much better than the worn Dunlops.

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On 9/10/2023 at 7:39 PM, Gunscrossed said:

What are the part numbers for the front pieces please, my offside on is missing 

I found it on Design911. Let me see if I can send you those details. The Left and Right side are different and not interchangeable. The link to the shop is https://www.design911.com/porsche/boxster-986-987-981/chassis-parts/#/dfclassic/query=rubber lip&query_name=match_and

99650450400 WHEEL ARCH LINNER LIP - R FNT / FNT PART 630814 1.00 0.03 Kg

996/986

99650450300  WHEEL ARCH LINNER LIP - L FNT / FNT PART 630814 1.00 0.03 Kg

996/996TT/986

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4 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:

I found it on Design911. Let me see if I can send you those details. The Left and Right side are different and not interchangeable. The link to the shop is https://www.design911.com/porsche/boxster-986-987-981/chassis-parts/#/dfclassic/query=rubber lip&query_name=match_and

99650450400 WHEEL ARCH LINNER LIP - R FNT / FNT PART 630814 1.00 0.03 Kg

996/986

99650450300  WHEEL ARCH LINNER LIP - L FNT / FNT PART 630814 1.00 0.03 Kg

996/996TT/986

As I listed a few days ago.  Also as they are genuine Porsche parts, they will be cheaper from your local OPC than D911...

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Passed its MOT.  Only done 4,400 miles this year compared to over 6k last, but it hasn't been on a continental trip this year and I did 2 with it last year.

A bit squeaky bum on the emissions as I hadn't had the chance to do an Italian tune up on the way to the test.  Got lamdba at 1.035 on first run (1.030 required) so he put the probe in the left exhaust and that gave 1.075!!! (I might need to get the exhaust joints checked on that side at least) so he agreed I could 'warm it up' a bit more so sat there are about 5k - 6k rpm for a minute or so to ensure it was all nice and warm, even though his oil temp probe wasn't long enough to get the the bottom of an M96 engine.  With the propbe back in the right side exhaust again, we got it to 1.028 - Phew! 

He also showed me a very slight knock in the front right suspension, feel not see so as he's done 10 or more MOTs for me on the family 'fleet' it isn't noted.  I suspect it is the coffin arm to upright ball joint.  Its a Spyder Performance coffin arm fitted in 2020 and has done about 15k miles...  Now will my OCD let me only change the front left, or do I do the pair?

Edited by ½cwt
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Let a mate have a good long drive of my 986 on some nice A/B roads.

He was very impressed with the way it drove, loved the feedback, handling, grip and of course the noise.

He said he now “gets the Porsche thing” it is a proper “driver’s car” and that I’d done a very nice job of putting it all together. Which was nice.

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On 9/12/2023 at 3:06 PM, allatsea said:

Following on from the 'head unit' inputs above, had a Continental head unit fitted, to replace my CDR-22 (which will be in the For Sale section by the end of the day!).

Very pleased with it.

IMG_2925.jpeg?rlkey=x13qz3oecmsq16g3ad11

What did you use to connect the head unit to the existing wiring please?

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I had the drivers seat out today as I have found myself sinking in it in recent weeks. To be honest I am probably at least 20kg heavier than the previous owners and sure enough, it looks like the mesh has stretched and the foam has sunk and cut around the plastic base towards to the rear of the seat. I have put some carpet in there and a wide zip tie and it’s pulled it all back together but not sure how long it will last. 
has anyone else fixed this problem please?

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42 minutes ago, TV8 said:

I had the drivers seat out today as I have found myself sinking in it in recent weeks. To be honest I am probably at least 20kg heavier than the previous owners and sure enough, it looks like the mesh has stretched and the foam has sunk and cut around the plastic base towards to the rear of the seat. I have put some carpet in there and a wide zip tie and it’s pulled it all back together but not sure how long it will last. 
has anyone else fixed this problem please?

This might help:

https://youtu.be/uGSdHrU1_CQ?si=MZkS_ZzZOI5hOzQA

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Fitted 6 new coil packs.  Beru ZS177 style removed, ZS178 fitted.  Main difference is the bolt holes are the same depth as the head of the pack.  They come with longer bolts E10 female Torx head but 8mm socket or ring spanner will work OK.  1 and 4 are fiddly being buried along way forward of the wheel arch.  Torqued up to 10Nm and a test start done, may be placebo, but fire up seems just a bit sharper than before.

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