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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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2 hours ago, RalphyBMW said:

I’ve just fitted some CTE arms, they seem to be recommended by a few good specialists including CG.

Jamie at Nelson Porsche recommended CTE, so that’s what I used.  He’s had various fitting/alignment issues with other brands over the years but CTE, Lemforder (harder to source) and the OEM Porsche arms are apparently trouble free. 

Edited by MacSter986
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38 minutes ago, TV8 said:

Did you need all new bolts as well, particularly the concentric ones? Good feedback on the make. There was a thread on here about which ones to use and they are a good price as well.

I was replacing arms that were only 3 years old so the bolts were fine.

Unfortunately I forgot to measure ride height before fitting so I haven’t torqued up yet.

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6 minutes ago, MacSter986 said:

Jamie at Nelson Porsche recommended CTE, so that’s what I used.  He’s had various fitting/alignment issues with other brands over the years but CTE, Lemforder (harder to source) and the OEM Porsche arms are apparently trouble free. 

I also spotted that Powerflex supply CTE arms, so I assume the ball joints are good.

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On 7/4/2024 at 9:25 PM, RalphyBMW said:

Mine went in for a service yesterday.

Not much in the filter but we’ve fitted a magnetic drain plug.

Weeping from one of the tensioners so the washer got replaced.

Rear brake shield was rubbing so that got adjusted.

Couple of bits of bad news

1. front brake line going to the block that splits for the rears is quite corroded; I’ve not had a good look but is this do’able to replace with the OE pre formed part?

2. Play in the ball joints on both front arms. These are Spyder parts that I fitted about 15k / 3 years ago. I’ve been advised to pop the ball joint out of the hub to make sure that I didn’t loose the insert when fitting, but seems likely that I’ll need a pair of new arms and a geo.

Overall not a bad result, gives me some jobs to do once I’ve sorted the Mini, but could have done without it!

 

On 7/4/2024 at 9:53 PM, ½cwt said:

I had a Spyder arm go at about that age/mileage.  Dean supplied a replacement FOC...

The brake line is not too bad but needs time and patience to form from cunifer as a DIY project but you need the correct flaring tool to make the ends.  Pre formed part is around £80ish 996 355 177 12. Odds are you'll need to cut the line to then get a socket on the flare nut in the aluminium block in front of the rear wheel, the front end is OK as it is up behind the front wheel arch liner.

 

On 7/5/2024 at 7:57 AM, Menoporsche said:

Definitely worth a call to Eporsch. Pity you’re a long way away. 1/2cwt, did you get yours by mail, or did you visit and let them inspect?

Update on this.

Having removed the arms with failed ball joints I dropped a mail to Spyder Performance.

Customer service was absolutely top notch, I had a response the same day with replacement arms shipped FOC.

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The little car has been getting quite a lot of attention recently;

Replacement N/S window regulator, went genuine Porsche, about £220.

Lots of useful info on here - I remembered about riveting in the additional buffer.

It was a faff to manoeuvre the regulator into the door but beyond that it was pretty straightforward, even the alignment seemed straightforward.

Slightly bittersweet as I hadn’t wanted to attempt this previously and paid a specialist to do the job last year. Chose an aftermarket regulator from D911 that failed on the trip back from FoS, wasn’t dropping enough. Should have just done it myself with genuine Porsche first time around.

The service spotted some corrosion on the N/S brake line going to the connector block. I’d ordered this from the OPC along with the regulator, about £85 or thereabouts.

Looking at it I had no idea how it was going to fit, or where it was going to go, but with some patience (along with headlamp and washer bottle removal) it was do’able on axle stands in the garage. Enlisted my daughter to bleed the rear brakes, just need to get the arch liner back in.

E82SF2Us.jpg
 

8dW3nK3C.jpg
 

Right now she’s still got her nose in the air so I can torque up some new front coffin arms and refit undertrays.

NJDkff25.jpg

G9fS9qSB.jpg

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19 hours ago, TV8 said:

I had these fitted today. Bought the parts from Matt at Type911 and fitted by a local garage with an alignment machine. 

Nice to have the little rattle gone when driving over potholes. Need to find some twisty roads now. Next stop Hubbard upholstery. 

cU1ELHQ.jpg

Thoroughly recommend Gary Hubbard, top bloke just did some excellent work on my hood.

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1 minute ago, map said:

@Toddie - could you let me know where Gary Hubbard is based please?

4 Gisborough Way, Loughborough LE11 4FU  07970 267747

Gary used to have a unit in Loughborough, but Covid did that in. He now works from home. He replaced the Plastic window in my 986 hood 8 years ago top job @ sensible money. He recently removed the outer hood and reglued the rear of the hood @ the bow under the clamshell when other trimmers would only fit a new hood @ £1200-£1500. Gary charged me £200!

If you want to see his work on my hood send me a DM as you are only just down the road.

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4 hours ago, RalphyBMW said:

The little car has been getting quite a lot of attention recently;

Replacement N/S window regulator, went genuine Porsche, about £220.

Lots of useful info on here - I remembered about riveting in the additional buffer.

It was a faff to manoeuvre the regulator into the door but beyond that it was pretty straightforward, even the alignment seemed straightforward.

Slightly bittersweet as I hadn’t wanted to attempt this previously and paid a specialist to do the job last year. Chose an aftermarket regulator from D911 that failed on the trip back from FoS, wasn’t dropping enough. Should have just done it myself with genuine Porsche first time around.

The service spotted some corrosion on the N/S brake line going to the connector block. I’d ordered this from the OPC along with the regulator, about £85 or thereabouts.

Looking at it I had no idea how it was going to fit, or where it was going to go, but with some patience (along with headlamp and washer bottle removal) it was do’able on axle stands in the garage. Enlisted my daughter to bleed the rear brakes, just need to get the arch liner back in.

E82SF2Us.jpg
 

8dW3nK3C.jpg
 

Right now she’s still got her nose in the air so I can torque up some new front coffin arms and refit undertrays.

NJDkff25.jpg

G9fS9qSB.jpg

Seeing the pics, I wish I have asked to see the old coffin arms!

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48 minutes ago, Toddie said:

4 Gisborough Way, Loughborough LE11 4FU  07970 267747

……..

If you want to see his work on my hood send me a DM as you are only just down the road.

Thank you - on both counts. 

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3 hours ago, map said:

@Toddie - could you let me know where Gary Hubbard is based please?

He did the vinyl window in my 986 hood too, good job.  £235 incl materials for a couple of hours on a Saturday morning at the time, about 4 years ago.

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On 8/13/2024 at 3:41 PM, MacSter986 said:

Had the car in at my local Indy specialist to have the a/c return line replaced and the system re-gassed.  Nice to have working a/c 🥶 

 

…which lasted 4 days.  FFS, this car is cursed! 

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1 hour ago, MacSter986 said:

…which lasted 4 days.  FFS, this car is cursed! 

Oh no what's wrong? Mines going in for the long ac intake pipe to be replaced on Tuesday, as there is a massive hole in it, it could be patched up but there might be other cracks in it, so best to just replace as it's a "triggers broom " car, and will be with me until it goes pop, or I can't afford to fix it anymore.

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4 hours ago, CAZ said:

Oh no what's wrong? Mines going in for the long ac intake pipe to be replaced on Tuesday, as there is a massive hole in it, it could be patched up but there might be other cracks in it, so best to just replace as it's a "triggers broom " car, and will be with me until it goes pop, or I can't afford to fix it anymore.

I have been waiting a month or so to get booked in to my local Indy specialist, to replace the low pressure/return pipe. Previous debugging indicated that the OE pipe was like a sieve and that it was the reason my A/C wasn’t working. I bought the return pipe from my local OPC.  
 

I thought it was fixed but sadly not.  The system was pressure tested and was apparently holding up just fine. I’m guessing it will be a small leak, making it a fkr to find…. 

Edited by MacSter986
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1 hour ago, MacSter986 said:

I have been waiting a month or so to get booked in to my local Indy specialist, to replace the low pressure/return pipe. Previous debugging indicated that the OE pipe was like a sieve and that it was the reason my A/C wasn’t working. I bought the return pipe from my local OPC.  
 

I thought it was fixed but sadly not.  The system was pressure tested and was apparently holding up just fine. I’m guessing it will be a small leak, making it a fkr to find…. 

Pin hole in a condenser bottom edge???

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9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Pin hole in a condenser bottom edge???

I’m going to get it nitrogen leak tested. I spoke to someone yesterday who funnily enough said “pin hole in the condenser”. 

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1 hour ago, MacSter986 said:

I’m going to get it nitrogen leak tested. I spoke to someone yesterday who funnily enough said “pin hole in the condenser”. 

A UV torch can be handy for spotting AC leaks; though less so if it’s somewhere you can’t see.

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As @RalphyBMW says, a UV torch is useful. If it has been charged recently it way well have dye in the refrigerant so no need for another gas test, just inspect with a UV torch.

Condensers often fail along the bottom edge as they get packed with road dust and debris, then it gets wet and never fully dries and rot out, or simply get hit by a stone.  They can be changed if you do basic DIY, this was the second job I did on my 986 after getting it with U/S air con, also a chance to check and change any bumper fixing screws that are corroded and change them to stainless steel ones.  All still good on min after nearly 6 years.  Fitting mesh behind the grilles in the bumper helps with this and is fairly easy DIY.

 

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On 7/14/2024 at 9:50 PM, pacificjuha said:

Not yet. Did not think of that being the fault, hmmm might need some investigating.

Regardless of possible assist spring issue, the clutch works now much better than with the old mastercylinder.

To get back on this.

Drove over 5000km which included a week at Nordschleife fairly warm (warmest +32 C) weather and the clutch return issues are totally gone. This did not show up even once at the trip (or aftter) regardless of getting the car properly hot on the track 😎

Next weekend I have 4 hours set at the track with the Boxster...

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I had my new coffin arms fitted last week and the car aligned afterwards. I have put a few miles on them over the weekend and very pleased. I hadn’t realised how noisy they were and on the south side of the M25 it is like a different car on the noisy surface, if you are familiar with it. 
Topping up with Petrol a couple of times, I also had the opportunity to check fuel consumption, with some pleasing results. Driving home from Cirencester with the roof off and not too bad traffic, an amazing 37 mpg! 

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On 8/15/2024 at 2:57 PM, map said:

Thank you - on both counts. 

Very pleased with Gary’s work. Nice bloke to deal with and pleased with the job he did for me. The hood needs a wash and the chalk will come off. The plastic needs to find its own fold point as well now. 
oLCQOWP.jpg
FhbpV2T.jpg

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25 minutes ago, TV8 said:

Very pleased with Gary’s work. Nice bloke to deal with and pleased with the job he did for me. The hood needs a wash and the chalk will come off. The plastic needs to find its own fold point as well now. 
oLCQOWP.jpg
FhbpV2T.jpg

The 'Boxster chop' is now more important than ever! Glad to see Gary is still doing good work.

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11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

The 'Boxster chop' is now more important than ever! Glad to see Gary is still doing good work.

Gary recommends pulling the canvas of the window and not touching the plastic. Easier said then done!

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