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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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8 minutes ago, Nitro V8 said:

Would there be an option to replace with a glass panel into the existing roof?

 

I do not think that is an option. There are also different roof types. As far as I can see, the best option is a mk2 roof complete. There are ones that fit on the mk1 frame but they do not open as far. Not that I have ever taken the engine cover off...

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Did about 370 miles in mine over the weekend, too many on the motorway, not enough with the top down, but the little car behaved herself.

New lower arms seem good, needs a geo but not far out.

Nearly 37mpg from the tank which is my best yet!

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On 8/18/2024 at 7:39 AM, RalphyBMW said:

A UV torch can be handy for spotting AC leaks; though less so if it’s somewhere you can’t see.

My worry is that when I had it regassed previously, the only visible dye that had leaked was on the return pipe, no other leaks visible. We were pretty confident replacing this would fix the issue.  
 

Oddly, I went over to the lakes yesterday and the a/c worked again. Freezing cold. Today, back to blowing warm. I’ve just scanned the car (basic OBD2 reader), no codes were stored. I wonder if the control unit or a sensor could be at fault.  I might try removing the climate controller and cleaning the contacts, etc…

Edited by MacSter986
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44 minutes ago, MacSter986 said:

My worry is that when I had it regassed previously, the only visible dye that had leaked was on the return pipe, no other leaks visible. We were pretty confident replacing this would fix the issue.  
 

Oddly, I went over to the lakes yesterday and the a/c worked again. Freezing cold. Today, back to blowing warm. I’ve just scanned the car (basic OBD2 reader), no codes were stored. I wonder if the control unit or a sensor could be at fault.  I might try removing the climate controller and cleaning the contacts, etc…

There’s a cabin temp sensor behind a grill in the dashboard (passenger side where the ignition would be) and that can go rogue which affects the Climate Control.  They clog with cabin detritus over time.

Some have removed and carefully cleaned it which has then resolved the problem.

Replacements from Porsche are available but priced at near unobtainium levels. 

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1 hour ago, map said:

There’s a cabin temp sensor behind a grill in the dashboard (passenger side where the ignition would be) and that can go rogue which affects the Climate Control.  They clog with cabin detritus over time.

Some have removed and carefully cleaned it which has then resolved the problem.

Replacements from Porsche are available but priced at near unobtainium levels. 

Thanks. Just removed and gently cleaned/brushed the sensor and fan. No change. I also checked the connections to the a/c controller and everything looks to be in order. It’s a shame my car is a 2001 model and misses out on the in-built diagnostic mode on the climate unit.  
 

A new sensor is £300 so I hope that’s not the root cause! 

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14 minutes ago, MacSter986 said:

Thanks. Just removed and gently cleaned/brushed the sensor and fan. No change. I also checked the connections to the a/c controller and everything looks to be in order. It’s a shame my car is a 2001 model and misses out on the in-built diagnostic mode on the climate unit.  
 

A new sensor is £300 so I hope that’s not the root cause! 

It's a shame that wasn't it - and Yes, £300 is very steep.

Whereabouts are you?  

It may be worth looking at the Durametric thread the forum has which shows who has the factory level diagnostic tools - maybe there's someone who's happy to help and close enough to warrant a trip.

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May be of no use, but on my daughters MINI the AC seemed to work when it wasn’t too hot outside.

On that car the system held pressure but the condenser was badly deteriorated, still held gas but had lost a lot of fins, but gunked up, etc.

41AzTFrD.jpg

Have you been able to have a good look at your condensers?

With the cabin temp sensor if you go to “Low” or “High” then you can eliminate the sensor input I think (it’s not trying to get to a temperature, it’s just trying to blow cold or hot).

Also worth checking connections around the dryer in the scuttle, unlikely but maybe worth a look.

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16 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:

May be of no use, but on my daughters MINI the AC seemed to work when it wasn’t too hot outside.

On that car the system held pressure but the condenser was badly deteriorated, still held gas but had lost a lot of fins, but gunked up, etc.

41AzTFrD.jpg

Have you been able to have a good look at your condensers?

With the cabin temp sensor if you go to “Low” or “High” then you can eliminate the sensor input I think (it’s not trying to get to a temperature, it’s just trying to blow cold or hot).

Also worth checking connections around the dryer in the scuttle, unlikely but maybe worth a look.

Condensers were replaced a few years ago and still look to be in good condition.  There’s no debris around them, or any obvious signs of damage to the fins. 
 

I’m booked in to get it looked at this Friday. 

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More a/c diagnostics….
 

The system was re-gassed over a week ago.  Good news, it’s not leaking, 850g taken out. System pressure is good. The cabin sensor is working (we tried another sensor). No DTC’s. All fuses ok.  We could hear the compressor clicking when enabling the a/c in both auto and manual modes. However, the clutch is not engaging.  The auxiliary belt/pulley is spinning but the clutch won’t engage and drive the compressor.  So it’s looking likely the pressure switch has an intermittent fault, the compressor clutch or the compressor itself are knackered. 
 

The garage ran out of time,  which included a bit of standing around whilst the a/c service machine went through the various cycles.  Great service as I was only pencilled in for a ‘quick look’.  I’m booked back in for Thursday 🤞🏻

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Fingers crossed for you - on the way home from having the long A.C. Pipe fitted on mine the revs kept spiking up intermittently, so spent all day Thursday back at the garage to get her sorted in between customers who had been booked in - 3 others there all either having a re-gas or sorting out their air con- but new variocam fitted and now ready for Curborough sprint track next week 😊

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Curbourgh is a very tight little track but good fun. I have done it about eight times I guess with my old TVR.

Here it is under heavy braking .

Spv1HFh.png

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Did some brake disc coloring...😳

Looks like as I'm learning to be a bit faster at the track, the brake discs are starting to show some color changes from steel color to blue. Maybe a time to upgrade the front brakes to my Boxster as the winter project.

Yesterday was a 4 hour track day where I was at the track a bit over 2 hours. Bunch of fun and starting to get to the point of driving at the limit of traction.

Pads are now Ferodo Racing DS2500 and fluids are Motul Race 600. No break fade at all for now - regadless of the blue discs.

LUyJ8xx.jpg

Edited by pacificjuha
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Good going! I have been using DS2500’s for about 12 years with a high temp Dot4 fluid in 4 cars. Never had any problems at all.

if you can afford it, try a set of Tarox F200 quality discs. Never the drilled and slotted eBay items!

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2 hours ago, phazed said:

Good going! I have been using DS2500’s for about 12 years with a high temp Dot4 fluid in 4 cars. Never had any problems at all.

if you can afford it, try a set of Tarox F200 quality discs. Never the drilled and slotted eBay items!

What’s the issue with drilled and slotted discs, out of curiosity? I thought these designs gave better cooling for the disc.

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I have read many times about not using drilled discs for use on Track Days.
I believe that most of the more reasonably priced disks available there is a chance of a fracture starting from one of these points.

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2 hours ago, Boxsum said:

If you haven’t got the 2 little raised dimples on your hub you could fit 298mm drilled discs off the 2.7 987 

This is a new info form me. Thank you. Have to check that one out.

I already have 996 drilled front discks home, but not yet calipers...

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1 hour ago, BBB said:

What’s the issue with drilled and slotted discs, out of curiosity? I thought these designs gave better cooling for the disc.

Drilled rotors are more prone to start cracking from the holes. Now you can buy slotted & drilled rotors where the hole do not go thru, but creates kind of a 'crater' that some say will not crack like fully drilled holes.

Most likely on the winter I'll purchase a pair of 996 front calipers and install those with 996 OEM drilled front discs I already have at home - lets see how well these rotors last and relpace as time is due.

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Don't forget holes Vs grooves or the various shapes indents are intended to do different things. 

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