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What have YOU done to your 987 today


Tony Daniel

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1 hour ago, Sentinel261 said:

Changed the AOS filter on my 987.2

its only done 38,000 miles so a little surprised that it was failing.

Didn’t even know the gen 2 had one! What were the systems of it failing and was it a difficult job to do?

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Symptoms were occasional clouds of smoke (burning oil) on start up, both cold and hot starts. Typically after a few hours.

Not too difficult but very fiddly. Some footage on YT on how to do it. There was oil present in the separator and hoses when inspected.

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Over the weekend I did:

- XRP option 5mm Porsche spacers & 5mm longer Porsche wheel bolts

- front Sebro discs

- front Mintex M1144 pads

- GT3 brake ducts

- locking wheel bolt 'delete'

I have the following parts ready to be fitted by a specialist next week

- engine mount bush

- Powerflex engine mount inserts

- Powerflex adjustable camber bushes

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Had the car serviced and the annoying issue with the window sorted.  

The passenger window would only go up with the switch on the drivers side, it wouldn’t go down so I had to lean over if I wanted to open it, now working both ways.

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Coming home from dinner last night I was enjoying the wet yet quiet roads when the car didn't quite feel right. I pushed on but slightly more gently and the exhaust started to get more bassy and louder. The link between the Cat and the Catback was loose, 2 bolts completely disappeared and it was only being held in by 1 bolt (no nut). I think the OEM studs have previously been replaced as it has a Carnewal system and the fasteners were A2 bolts. I have secured the exhaust for now with high quality fasteners from my stash but ideally would like to replace with something that A won't corrode from damp & B won't undergo galvanic corrosion. What's the best bet ? High quality stainless bolts with brass or copper nuts ? Or high quality M8 stainless bolts + Nuts ? 

Reluctant to use Ti as it's a bastard to remove if seized and could seize due to dissimilarity of metals ? 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Crudeoink said:

Coming home from dinner last night I was enjoying the wet yet quiet roads when the car didn't quite feel right. I pushed on but slightly more gently and the exhaust started to get more bassy and louder. The link between the Cat and the Catback was loose, 2 bolts completely disappeared and it was only being held in by 1 bolt (no nut). I think the OEM studs have previously been replaced as it has a Carnewal system and the fasteners were A2 bolts. I have secured the exhaust for now with high quality fasteners from my stash but ideally would like to replace with something that A won't corrode from damp & B won't undergo galvanic corrosion. What's the best bet ? High quality stainless bolts with brass or copper nuts ? Or high quality M8 stainless bolts + Nuts ? 

Reluctant to use Ti as it's a bastard to remove if seized and could seize due to dissimilarity of metals ? 

 

 

I prefer stainless bolts with brass nuts. That way you don't get any dissimilar metal  corrosion and you'll always be able to get the brass nut off. If you're worried about vibration loosening them, I would use two brass nuts - the second nut acts like a locking device for the first. 

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Following on from some comments in the 986 thread, I went out for a short blast to try some heel and toe (never done it before).

Almost went into the back of someone, sounded like a learner driver with the engine revving all over the place and my ankle is killing me - so went well 🤪

Lots more practice needed...

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28 minutes ago, nelmo said:

Following on from some comments in the 986 thread, I went out for a short blast to try some heel and toe (never done it before).

Almost went into the back of someone, sounded like a learner driver with the engine revving all over the place and my ankle is killing me - so went well 🤪

Lots more practice needed...

My tip would be to do it on a quiet road and at low speeds, just get used to blipping the throttle in a manner that suits you.. i blip the throttle with the side of the right foot as im pressing the brake. 

Once you have got used to doing that and it you feel comfortable with it then work out how high the revs would need to match when downshifting and start to do it with higher revs than before. 

Deffo dont do it with other people on the roads with you till you're comfortable and its like second nature.  

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2 hours ago, nelmo said:

Following on from some comments in the 986 thread, I went out for a short blast to try some heel and toe (never done it before).

Almost went into the back of someone, sounded like a learner driver with the engine revving all over the place and my ankle is killing me - so went well 🤪

Lots more practice needed...

Still don’t get it and still don’t understand why you Need to , right foot is for pressing down hard and the odd occasion use the brake , this I learnt from another member on here!!!!

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2 hours ago, And.rs1800 said:

😂😂😂

 

 

2 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Still don’t get it and still don’t understand why you Need to , right foot is for pressing down hard and the odd occasion use the brake , this I learnt from another member on here!!!!

Keep the car settled on corner entry / stops the rears from trying to lock when you're braking hard and engine braking too. Makes a big difference in the wet and is amazing when you get 3 or 4 perfect heel & toe blips into a corner 

 

Anyways I bought some M8 A2 Stainless bolts and M8 Brass nuts to replace the corroded Cat->Back box link. Changed them on both sides and used 2x brass nuts on each bolt to securely fasten them. Glad I took the time to do both sides as the nuts on the driver's side were pretty much non-existent. Whilst I was there I fitted a set of hubcentric wheel spacers 7mm front and 15mm rear. Cars looks great with the extra width, much more purposeful 

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1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

When on pace I just blip for a change down

I blip on every downchange whatever I’m driving-force of habit

 I’m a lorry driver and constant mesh gearboxes were still a thing in the 90’s

 If you didn’t blip to synchronise revs to road speed you’d certainly be playing a tune on the gearbox,and a lot of times simply would not be able to get the lower gear at all.

 Once mastered you only needed the clutch to pull away and when you needed to come to a stop,happy days😎

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